exploring Georgia – the cradle of winemaking

From ancient to modern, Georgia and their wines have it all.

Nestled at the crossroads of Eastern Europe and Western Asia, Georgia is a gem of a country cradled in the Caucasus region, in a tapestry of stunning landscapes and rich cultural heritage. With more than 8000 years of winemaking history, Georgia’s roots run deep, and the vineyards whisper tales of ancient traditions.

Handmade Qvevri Winemaking Vessel

On my recent journey through Georgia, I delved into the mesmerizing world of qvevri winemaking—a tradition dating back over 8,000 years. These egg-shaped clay vessels, buried underground, play a pivotal role in the winemaking process. Only about 3% of Georgian wines today embrace this ancient method, making it a rare and cherished practice.

The term “amber wine” and “orange wine” are often used interchangeably, both referring to wines made from white grapes that undergo extended skin contact during fermentation. Red wines, too, find their place in qvevri, with this unique process lending depth and character to both white and red varieties. The result is a spectrum of flavors and hues, capturing the essence of Georgia’s winemaking heritage.

Georgia’s 500-Plus Indigenous Varieties

Georgia, the cradle of winemaking, is an absolute treasure trove boasting more than 500 indigenous grape varieties—a staggering one-sixth of the world’s total grape varieties. Wander through Georgian vineyards, and you’ll encounter endangered vines found nowhere else on our vinous planet. Some estates even house living vine libraries, a vinous haven where visitors can sample the rarest of the rare.

One such vinous sanctuary is the National Grape Collection, nestled in the LEPL Scientific-Research Center of Agriculture in Jighaura, just north of Tbilisi. Here, a curated selection of 437 native Georgian grape varieties, alongside 350 non-Georgian counterparts, beckons wine lovers and researchers alike. The mission? To delve into the origins, characteristics, and potential of these indigenous grapes, not only rediscovering lost varieties but also identifying those destined for quality wine production.

Rkatsiteli harvest at Teliani Winery

Georgia’s Key Varieties: Saperavi and Rkatsiteli

Spanning nearly 50,000 hectares of vineyards, Georgia’s viticultural landscape is predominantly divided into 75% white grape varieties and 25% red. The Kakheti region, situated in eastern Georgia, stands tall as the primary winemaking hub, nurturing approximately 80 grape varieties. Amidst this diversity, two varieties stand out: Rkatsiteli, a prominent white grape, and Saperavi, a robust red.


Visiting the Wineries

I had a blast exploring the wineries and wish I had had time to see them all! Here’s how far I made it:

Shumi Winery: Pioneers of modern Georgian winemaking and a prominent producer of top-notch Georgian wines, this gorgeous, welcoming estate is nestled in the Tsinandali village within the renowned Kakheti wine region. The name ‘Shumi’ derives from an ancient Georgian word for authentic, unadulterated wine – and that’s exactly what they make! With 300 hectares of vineyards spanning various micro-zones, each boasting unique terroir and history, Shumi showcases distinctly Kakhetian-style wines. Beyond the local flair, Shumi’s passion extends globally, aiming to educate visitors worldwide through an impressive vineyard collection featuring over 400 indigenous varieties and a museum of ancient wine artifacts. I highly, highly recommend a visit.

Vaziani Winery: Established in 1982 as the worthy successor to Telavi Winery No.1, Vaziani Winery has been a torchbearer of Georgian winemaking traditions. In response to post-Soviet viniculture challenges, the formation of a souvenir-producing factory marked a strategic pivot. Departing from the low-quality wines of the 70s, Vaziani’s goal was to craft premium gift bottles, safeguarding the reputation of renowned wines. This bold experiment proved successful, and today, Vaziani proudly stands as a testament to this transformative journey in Georgian winemaking history.

Chateau Buera: A haven for wine enthusiasts that seamlessly blends expansive vineyards, winemaking excellence, and their stunning Renaissance-style palace. This unique space harmonizes modernity with ancient winemaking traditions and offers visitors a chance to savor high-quality locally produced wines, explore the wine cellar, and delve into Georgia’s art of traditional winemaking. It doesn’t hurt that the estate sits right in the middle of a gorgeous lake resort with multiple pools, restaurants and a full spa. Nestled in the Napareuli microzone, the well-tended vineyards on alluvial, rocky soils epitomize Château Buera’s commitment to preserving nature, respecting the soil, and fostering harmonious relationships between people and the land.

Golden hour out-takes from my visit to Chateau Buera

Khareba Winery: Perched on the edge of the Alazani Valley, the “Kvareli Wine Cave” is a unique wine cellar and must-visit tourist destination. Carved into the Caucasus rock massif, the cave maintains an ideal temperature of 12-16 °C throughout the year for impeccable wine storage and aging. Stretching 7.7 km, this wine tunnel boasts two main and thirteen connecting tunnels. While one entrance caters to tourism, others are dedicated to the care and aging of wines in metal and oak containers. Up to 26,000 of their finest bottles live here, with the oldest collectible wine aging gracefully at 17 years old.

Bolero Winery: Set against the stunning backdrop of the Alazani Valley, the Bolero Winery – previously a soviet wine factory – is nestled in the heart of the Kakheti wine region. Founded in 2012, Bolero & Company crafts an array of products for global markets and even have their own train station on-site. Bolero produces traditional qvevri and European-style wines as well as brandy and chacha.

Teliani Valley Winery: Established in 1997 on the grounds of a 19th-century winery in Teliani village, it hasn’t taken long for this estate to emerge as a key producer of Georgian wine. Producing over 2 million bottles annually, the winery’s modern facilities are situated in Kakheti, east Georgia, within the Kakheti appellation. Their wines strike an appealing balance for both novice and seasoned wine enthusiasts, showcasing a distinctive local character through the exclusive use of indigenous Georgian varietals.

Chateau Mukhrani: Originally a 16th-century royal estate, Mukhrani is one of Georgia’s oldest estates, producing wines since 1876. Located 35km from Tbilisi between the Caucasus and Trialeti Mountains, where evidence of winemaking dates back over 8,000 years. The estate, revived in 2003, blends ancient Georgian traditions with modern techniques across its 100 hectares of vineyards, featuring both international and indigenous grape varieties. From its roots as a royal palace to its resurgence in winemaking, Château Mukhrani embodies the rich history and dynamic spirit of Georgian viticulture.

Each of these estates, with its unique terroir and winemaking philosophy, contributed to making my Georgian experience truly well-rounded and unforgettable. From centuries-old traditions, to cutting-edge innovation, Georgia’s winemaking scene is a celebration of diversity and passion. I can hardly wait to go back!

Georgia Quick Facts:

Country Size: 69,700 square kilometres 
Population: 3.7 million people
Capital City: Tbilisi
Main Language: Georgian – written using Mkhedruli script.
Wine Regions and Appellations: https://winesgeorgia.com/appellations/
Grape Varieties: https://winesgeorgia.com/grape-varieties/
Geography, Climate & Soils: https://winesgeorgia.com/grape-varieties/

That’s it for now.

Stay thirsty!

Jana



Hier geht es zu Informationen auf Deutsch: https://weine-aus-georgien.de/geographie

Credits: Special thanks to Daniel Beyer for the photo of me in my fancy Georgian hat at the top of the article.

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